The Not-So-Tender World of Whale Courtship: Humpback Romance in Rurutu
Two adult males approach a female and her calf. This time, however, they did not attempt to mate with the female. Rather, they stayed in a pod for a couple of hours interacting gently with each other before the males moved on to join another group of males.
Every year, humpback whales undertake an 8,000-kilometer migration from their feeding grounds near Antarctica to the warm, sheltered waters of French Polynesia’s Austral Islands. Here, in the remote and rugged waters off Rurutu, they give birth, nurture their young, and engage in a spectacular mating season—one that is far from peaceful.
For five weeks (all of September and the first week in October), I went free-diving daily in these crystal-clear waters, observing and documenting humpback whale behavior. What I witnessed wasn’t the gentle, poetic courtship often imagined but an intense, high-energy battle for dominance, survival, and reproduction.
Why Rurutu?
Unlike the lagoon-fringed islands of Tahiti and Moorea, Rurutu’s deep, open waters create an ideal calving and mating ground. The lack of a surrounding lagoon makes it one of the best places in the world to swim with humpback whales, with fewer boats, better water clarity, and unparalleled natural interactions.
This exclusive and remote location allows for ethical and intimate encounters, away from the overcrowded tourism hotspots of Moorea and Tahiti.
A baby whale twists and dives at the surface next to its mother. For the first few weeks of a newborn’s life, it stays above its mother’s head, as the mother must help it breathe. As it grows, it becomes increasingly independent, visiting the surface on its own and swimming freely, but never far from mother’s watch.
A Migration Fueled by Birth, Milk, and… Testosterone
Humpback whales in Rurutu fall into three main categories:
Mothers & Calves – Newborns depend entirely on their mothers for protection and nourishment, gaining over 100 pounds per day from their fat-rich milk.
Escorts – Males that accompany mothers, often appearing protective but ultimately waiting for a chance to mate.
Competitive Males – Unattached males seeking to overthrow escorts and pursue females, often aggressively.
As I soon discovered, whale courtship is anything but gentle.
A mother with her newborn calf is accompanied by a large male escort whale. The escort whales are not the fathers of the newborns, rather, social pods between whales do not typically last into the next calving season and the escorts are unrelated to the females or calves. Escorts normally attempt to mate with females as well as fend off any potential rivals and suitors.
Escort Males: Protectors or Opportunists?
During my time in Rurutu, I observed six mother-calf pairs, tracking their behavior and interactions. A consistent theme emerged: males shadowing females. These escort whales may appear loyal and protective, but their true motivation is mating.
Escorts defend their chosen female from rival males, but loyalty is not guaranteed. Over time, they will be challenged, overthrown, or abandoned if the mother rejects their advances. Some females even acquire multiple escorts—one dominant, one subordinate.
A group of three adult males play with each other in deeper water. Tail thrashing, bumping, fin slaps, twisting and blowing bubbles from their air holes underwater was a common occurrence. These three males were highly interactive with me, as they made several passes to play and observe.
A male suitor can be seen below the female blowing bubbles into the water. Bubbles are used to show aggression and excitement, as the males chase and compete for the female. However, a female with a newborn calf does not typically mate, as they normally only have babies every two to four years, as opposed to yearly. The gestation period for humpback whales is approximately 11 months.
A mother humpback pushes her baby to the surface by lifting it on her head, while two male suitors attack from behind. The mother is concerned that the males may separate and accidentally drown the baby while they pursue her. She works hard to keep the baby on her head while outmaneuvering the males.
A large male suitor swoops in on a female with her newborn calf. Curious to see the human, the male made a pass at me once, before refocusing his efforts on the female and her calf.
After diving to a depth around five metres, the mother and baby dodge a fast-approaching male suitor. A second suitor can be seen behind her. The suitor turns to double back on the mother.
The Darker Side of Whale Romance: Mating Battles & Aggression
I expected to document calm, nurturing mother-calf bonds. Instead, I found myself in the middle of full-blown whale warfare.
On three separate occasions, I witnessed males aggressively pursuing mothers with newborns. The goal? To separate the calf from the mother and force mating. This ruthless competition involves:
Body slams – Males physically bumping and cutting off the female.
High-speed chases – Sometimes lasting over an hour.
Tail slaps and thrashing – Used to intimidate rivals.
Islanders in Rurutu have reported cases of calves drowning due to persistent male harassment. Mothers will go to extreme lengths to protect their young, lifting them onto their heads or using humans as shields. On one occasion, a mother even positioned her calf next to me—knowing the males wouldn’t come too close.
These encounters were both heartbreaking and awe-inspiring—a powerful reminder of the brutal reality of whale reproduction.
A mother and her calf enjoy a moment of tranquillity near the surface. The calf just dropped its head back into the water after taking a breath of air.
A mother humpback pushes her calf to the surface on the side of her head, while twisting her body to fend off an attack from two male suitors. Humpback whales can bend and twist their ribs, allowing them a great degree of flexibility and agility in the water, despite their massive size.
A calf swims just above its mother’s head, as the gently rests in the clear water.
The Most Chaotic Courtship Ritual: Heat Runs
One of the most dramatic displays of whale mating competition is the heat run—a frenzied pursuit where multiple males race to compete for a single female.
Groups of 2–10 males chase one female.
Males jostle, scrape, and ram each other for dominance.
The chase can last for hours, sometimes days.
During these encounters, whales become so focused on each other that they barely acknowledge humans. Diving into a heat run feels like being in the middle of an underwater stampede—30-ton whales racing past at high speed, leaving trails of whitewater in their wake.
It’s a thrilling, chaotic, and sometimes dangerous experience, requiring extreme caution and respect for the whales’ space.
Six males pursue a female during a heat run off the Austral Islands in French Polynesia. The female leads them on a chase, as the males bump, lunge and knock each other around to vie for a better position near the female in heat.
Humpback Whale Songs: The Serenade of the Sea
Not all courtship is violent. One of the most fascinating and mysterious aspects of humpback mating behavior is their haunting, complex songs.
Only males sing—often in deep, echoing tones.
Songs can last for hours, repeating intricate patterns.
The sound is so powerful it can vibrate through your chest when diving nearby.
Scientists still debate whether whale songs are meant to attract females, challenge rival males, or both, but one thing is clear—these underwater melodies are unlike anything else in the natural world.
A Glimpse into New Life: Observing a Newborn Calf
While I didn’t witness an actual humpback birth, I followed a heavily pregnant female for several days. When I finally relocated her, she was accompanied by a tiny newborn calf—still learning to control its buoyancy.
In the first few weeks of life, a whale calf:
Surfaces every 3-5 minutes to breathe.
Relies entirely on its mother’s milk.
Stays close to its mother, never straying far.
Over time, calves become more independent, playfully breaching and twirling at the surface. In some cases, mothers allow humans to “babysit” their curious young—a privilege that requires utmost respect and gentle movements.
Three adult males jostle around a single female with a young calf. They are likely competing for the escort position, where a single whale accompanies the mother and calf and may opportunistically mate with her.
A calf stays safely under its mother’s pectoral fin after nursing.
Why Choose The Austral Islands for Whale Swimming? (and why we operate here in Rurutu)
Rurutu offers one of the most exclusive and intimate whale-swimming experiences in the world. Here’s why:
Fewer boats – Only four licensed operators, unlike crowded Moorea.
Better water clarity – Visibility often falls between 30-50 meters.
Exclusive encounters – Less human impact, more natural behavior.
Genuine cultural experience – Engage with traditional Polynesian communities.
Unlike other destinations where whale swims feel commercialized, Rurutu provides raw, untamed, and deeply personal encounters—a true once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Final Thoughts: Witnessing the Wild Side of Humpbacks
Swimming with humpback whales in Rurutu is not just about peaceful, serene encounters—it’s about witnessing the raw, untamed reality of their lives.
From fierce mating battles to tender mother-calf bonds, every interaction is a window into the world of one of Earth’s most extraordinary creatures.
If you’re seeking an intimate, ethical, and unforgettable whale experience, Rurutu is the place to be.
Want to Join a Whale Swimming Trip in Rurutu?
Experience the magic of whale courtship, mother-calf bonds, and untamed ocean life in one of the world’s most pristine locations.
Limited spots available—Book your Rurutu whale adventure today!
